10 Quick Deckbuilding Tricks Every Casual MTG Player Should Know
You don’t need a $500 mana base or a pro tour pedigree to build a deck that wins. You just need to stop making the mistakes that most casual players make without realizing it.
These 10 deckbuilding tricks are fast to learn and immediately actionable. Each one will make your next deck tighter, more consistent, and more fun to play. Whether you’re building a 60-card kitchen table brew or a Commander list, these fundamentals apply.
Let’s get into it.
1. Stick to 60 Cards (or 100 in Commander)
Every card you add beyond the minimum deck size makes your best cards harder to draw. That’s not opinion — it’s math. In a 60-card deck, any single card has a 1-in-60 chance of being your next draw. Bump that to 70 cards and you’ve diluted every draw step by over 15%.
The temptation to run 65 or 70 cards usually comes from not wanting to cut anything. But here’s the truth: if you can’t decide what to cut, that’s a sign your deck lacks focus, not that it needs more cards.
Commander players: the same logic applies at 100 cards. Don’t run 105 because you couldn’t make the last few cuts. The singleton format is already inconsistent by design — don’t make it worse.
The fix: After you finish building, force yourself to identify the 3 weakest cards and cut them. If you’re already at 60, great. If you’re at 63, those cuts just brought you to the minimum.
2. Follow the Rule of 9
This is the simplest deckbuilding framework that exists for 60-card decks: pick 9 cards you want to build around, run 4 copies of each, and add 24 lands. That’s 36 spells + 24 lands = 60 cards.
The Rule of 9 forces consistency. Running 4 copies of a card means you’re far more likely to draw it in your opening hand or first few turns. One-ofs and two-ofs should be the exception, not the default.
For Commander: You can’t run multiples (except basic lands), but the principle still applies. Instead of 4 copies, run 3-4 cards that fill the same role. Need card draw? Don’t run one draw spell — run Harmonize, Rishkar’s Expertise, Beast Whisperer, and Guardian Project. Functional redundancy is the Commander equivalent of running 4-ofs.
The fix: Lay out your decklist in groups of 4. If any group has fewer than 3 copies (in 60-card) or fewer than 3 cards filling the same role (in Commander), ask yourself if that slot is earning its place.
3. Build Your Mana Curve, Not Your Card Collection
New players love splashy, expensive spells. But a deck full of 5-, 6-, and 7-mana bombs means you’re doing nothing for the first four turns while your opponent builds a board and attacks you.
Your mana curve — the distribution of mana costs across your deck — should be front-loaded. For most casual 60-card decks, aim for something like this:
- 1-mana: 4-8 cards
- 2-mana: 8-12 cards
- 3-mana: 6-10 cards
- 4-mana: 4-6 cards
- 5+ mana: 2-4 cards
Cards like Go for the Throat at 2 mana or Lightning Strike at 2 mana let you interact early. A top-end finisher like Etali, Primal Conqueror is great — but you only need one or two of those, not eight.
The fix: After building your deck, sort it by mana cost. If your curve doesn’t look like a hill that peaks at 2-3 mana, you have work to do.
4. Playtest Digitally Before Buying
This trick alone will save you hundreds of dollars over your Magic career. Before you spend real money on cards, test the deck online for free.
The original version of this advice from 2009 recommended programs like Apprentice and Magic Workstation. The tools have gotten dramatically better since then:
- Moxfield — Build your deck and use the “Playtest” feature to goldfish (draw sample hands and play out turns solo). It’s free and the best deckbuilding tool available.
- MTG Arena — Free-to-play and perfect for testing Standard and Explorer decks against real opponents.
- Cockatrice — Free, open-source client where you can test any format against other players with no card restrictions.
- Spelltable — For Commander, play with your webcam using your physical cards (or proxies) against real people online.
Goldfish your deck at least 10 times before buying a single card. Draw your opening hand. Play out the first 5 turns. Ask yourself: Am I doing something meaningful by turn 3? If the answer is consistently no, redesign before you spend.
The fix: Build your next deck on Moxfield first. Playtest 10 opening hands. Only buy the cards after you’re satisfied with how the deck flows.
5. Use Budget Alternatives
You don’t need Sheoldred, the Apocalypse to build a good black deck. For every $30+ staple, there’s usually a $1-3 card that does 80% of the same job.
The key is learning how to search for alternatives. Scryfall is your best friend here. Use its advanced search syntax to find cards with similar effects:
- Need a board wipe but can’t afford Farewell? Search for
o:"destroy all" t:sorceryand sort by price. Blasphemous Act is almost always under $2 and does the job. - Want card draw in green? Harmonize draws 3 for under $0.50. You don’t need Sylvan Library.
- Removal? Swords to Plowshares is cheap thanks to reprints, but Path to Exile and Generous Gift are excellent and budget-friendly too.
The original Quick Tricks guide compared Birds of Paradise to Gemhide Sliver. Today, Llanowar Elves, Elvish Mystic, and Fyndhorn Elves are all under $1 and serve the same purpose.
The fix: Before buying any card over $5, search Scryfall for a cheaper version of that effect. You’ll be surprised how often you find one.
6. Read Your Metagame
Your deck doesn’t exist in a vacuum. It exists in your playgroup. If your friend always plays a creature-heavy green stompy deck, you need removal. If someone runs heavy counterspells, you need cards that are hard to counter or that bait out responses.
The “metagame” is just a fancy word for “what everyone at your table is playing.” Pay attention to it.
Ask yourself three questions:
1. Who plays what decks? Know the threats before you sit down.
2. What cards consistently beat me? Build answers into your deck.
3. What strategies am I weakest against? Shore up those gaps.
If your group loves graveyard strategies, slot in Rest in Peace or Bojuka Bog. If artifacts are everywhere, Vandalblast or Bane of Progress can swing entire games.
The fix: After your next game night, write down the 3 cards or strategies that beat you most. Next time you update your deck, add answers for at least one of them.
7. Every Card Needs a Job
Pick up any card in your deck. Can you explain why it’s there in one sentence? If you can’t, cut it.
Every slot in your deck is precious real estate. Cards earn their spot by doing one of these jobs:
- Advancing your game plan (threats, combo pieces, engines)
- Protecting your game plan (counterspells, hexproof, indestructible)
- Disrupting your opponent’s game plan (removal, discard, hate cards)
- Enabling consistency (card draw, tutors, mana fixing)
A card like Thalia, Guardian of Thraben does two jobs at once: she’s a 2/1 attacker AND she slows down spell-heavy opponents. That’s an efficient card slot. Meanwhile, a random 4/4 vanilla creature with no abilities? It’s just taking up space something better could fill.
The fix: Go through your deck card by card. For each one, state its job in one sentence. Any card you hesitate on is a cut candidate.
8. Include Interaction
This is the biggest mistake casual deckbuilders make: building a deck that only does “its thing” and ignores the opponent entirely. If your deck is a creature deck with zero removal, you’ll fold the first time someone plays a single threat you can’t attack through.
Every deck needs some amount of interaction. How much depends on your format and strategy, but here’s a starting point for 60-card decks:
- 4-6 removal spells (creature removal, enchantment/artifact removal)
- 2-4 protection pieces (counterspells, indestructible effects, or hexproof)
Good, cheap interaction that fits almost any deck:
| Color | Removal | Protection |
|---|---|---|
| White | Swords to Plowshares, Generous Gift | Flawless Maneuver |
| Blue | Counterspell, Reality Shift | Negate |
| Black | Go for the Throat, Feed the Swarm | Malakir Rebirth |
| Red | Lightning Bolt, Chaos Warp | Tibalt’s Trickery |
| Green | Beast Within, Ram Through | Heroic Intervention |
The fix: Count the number of cards in your deck that can interact with an opponent’s board or stack. If it’s fewer than 6 in a 60-card deck (or 10-12 in Commander), add more.
9. Manage Your Mana Base
Getting the right number of lands is only half the equation. Getting the right colors at the right time is the other half.
For a two-color 60-card deck, roughly 24 lands is standard. But if all 24 are basics split evenly, you’ll get color-screwed regularly. Dual lands fix this:
- Budget duals: Pain lands like Battlefield Forge and Yavimaya Coast are typically under $2.
- Free duals: Gain lands (enter tapped, gain 1 life) are essentially free.
- Commander staples: Command Tower should be in every Commander deck. It costs pennies.
A common mistake is running too few lands. If your deck has a lot of 3- and 4-mana spells, 24 lands is the floor, not the ceiling. If you’re hitting land drops late, go to 25 or 26.
Conversely, aggressive decks with a low mana curve (mostly 1- and 2-drops) can trim to 20-22 lands and use those extra slots for more threats.
The fix: Use the Karsten mana base calculator or the Moxfield mana analysis tool to check if your color distribution matches your mana requirements.
10. Iterate and Improve
Your first draft of a deck is never the final version. The best decks evolve through dozens of small tweaks over many games. The trick is tracking those tweaks so you learn from them.
After every game, ask yourself:
- What cards sat dead in my hand? If a card consistently does nothing, cut it.
- What did I sideboard in every game? If you always bring it in, it belongs in the main deck.
- What did I wish I had drawn? That’s a signal to add more copies or similar effects.
- Did I have too many/few lands? Adjust accordingly.
Keep a simple log — even just a note on your phone. Over 5-10 games, patterns become obvious. Maybe that flashy 6-mana spell never resolves. Maybe you always need more card draw on turn 4. The data tells you what to change.
The fix: After your next 5 games, make at least 2 card swaps based on what you observed. Then play 5 more. Repeat. This is how good decks become great decks.
Bonus Trick: The 8-by-8 Method for Commander
Since Commander is the most popular casual format, here’s a bonus trick specifically for 100-card decks. The 8-by-8 method is the Commander version of the Rule of 9:
Pick 8 categories your deck needs (such as ramp, card draw, removal, board wipes, threats, protection, recursion, and utility). Fill each category with 8 cards. That gives you 64 nonland cards + 36 lands = 100 cards.
This ensures you have a balanced deck with enough of everything. Too many Commander decks have 20 creatures, 3 removal spells, and no card draw. The 8-by-8 method prevents that imbalance before it starts.
Adjust the numbers based on your commander and strategy — an aggro deck might have 12 threats and 4 board wipes, while a control deck reverses those numbers — but 8-by-8 is the starting point.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many lands should I run in my MTG deck?
For a standard 60-card deck, 24 lands is the default starting point. Aggressive decks with low mana curves (average mana value under 2.5) can go as low as 20-22. Control decks or decks with expensive spells may want 25-26. For Commander, 36-38 lands is typical, though decks with heavy ramp packages can sometimes get away with 33-35. Always adjust based on your playtesting — if you’re frequently mana-screwed, add lands; if you’re frequently flooded, cut one or two.
What is the best free tool for building MTG decks online?
Moxfield is the gold standard for online deckbuilding in 2026. It offers free deck creation, a built-in playtest/goldfish feature, mana curve visualization, price tracking, and community deck sharing. For actual gameplay testing, MTG Arena is free-to-play for Standard and Explorer formats, while Cockatrice lets you test any format with any card for free against real opponents.
How do I know which cards to cut from my deck?
Apply the “one sentence” test: if you can’t explain a card’s role in one sentence, it’s a cut candidate. Beyond that, track your games. Cards that consistently sit in your hand without being cast, cards that never impact the board when you play them, and cards that you always sideboard out are all signals. Replace them with cards that address weaknesses you’ve identified through playtesting. When in doubt, cut the most expensive (highest mana cost) card, as it likely contributes to curve problems.
Keep Improving Your Deckbuilding
These 10 tricks are the foundation, but deckbuilding is a skill you develop over hundreds of games and dozens of builds. If you want to go deeper, check out our Complete Guide to Deckbuilding in MTG — it covers advanced topics like card advantage theory, sideboard construction, and archetype-specific building strategies.
Building a budget deck that punches above its weight? We have a guide for that too.
Now go cut those extra 5 cards from your deck. You know which ones they are.
Originally adapted from The Casual Planeswalker’s Quick Tricks guide (2009), fully modernized for today’s tools, formats, and card pool.
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