The Complete Guide to Casual MTG Deckbuilding
Building your own Magic: The Gathering deck is one of the most rewarding parts of the game. There is nothing quite like sitting down across from a friend, shuffling up sixty cards you chose yourself, and watching your plan come together. But if you have ever stared at a pile of cards and thought, “Where do I even start?” — you are not alone.
This guide walks you through everything you need to build a casual MTG deck that actually works. Whether you are constructing your first 60-card kitchen table deck or assembling a Commander list for your Friday night group, the fundamentals here will help you build something focused, fun, and competitive enough to hold its own.
Why Deck Size Matters More Than You Think
Here is the single most important rule in deckbuilding, and the one that new players break most often: stick to the minimum deck size.
For most constructed formats, that means 60 cards. For Commander (EDH), it means exactly 100 cards (99 cards plus your commander). You might feel tempted to squeeze in a few extra cards because they all seem good. Resist that urge.
The math is straightforward. If you have a key card in your deck and you are running 60 cards with four copies, you have roughly a 40% chance of seeing it in your opening hand. Bump the deck to 75 cards and that probability drops to about 33%. At 90 cards, you are below 28%. Every card you add above the minimum makes your best cards harder to find.
This is not just about probability — it affects your entire game plan:
- Consistency drops. You draw the right card at the right time less often.
- Mana ratios get blurry. A good deck needs a precise balance of lands to spells, and extra cards throw that ratio off.
- Games take longer. Oversized decks are harder to shuffle, slower to execute their plan, and more frustrating to pilot.
If you find yourself unable to cut down to the minimum, that is usually a sign your deck is trying to do too many things at once. Which brings us to the next point.
Start With a Central Idea
Every good deck starts with a question: What is this deck trying to do?
Maybe your answer is “attack with a swarm of small creatures before the opponent stabilizes.” Maybe it is “control the board until I can land a massive game-ending threat.” Maybe it is “assemble a two-card combo and win on the spot.” All of those are valid answers — the key is picking one and committing to it.
New deckbuilders often fall into the trap of building what experienced players call a “good stuff pile.” You open your collection, pull out every powerful card in your colors, and shuffle them together. The problem is that a deck full of individually strong cards with no shared purpose will lose to a focused deck with a clear plan almost every time. Synergy beats raw power.
How to Find Your Focus
- Pick your win condition. How does this deck actually win the game? Name it specifically.
- Choose cards that support that plan. Every card in your deck should either advance your win condition, protect it, or buy you time to execute it.
- Ask the hard question for every card. Before including something, ask: “Does this help my deck do what it wants to do?” If the answer is no — even if the card is powerful — leave it out.
Here is a practical example. Say you are building a green-white deck around the idea of going wide with creature tokens. Cards like Adeline, Resplendent Cathar, Raise the Alarm, and Intangible Virtue all support that plan directly. But if you also jam in a copy of Vorinclex, Monstrous Raider just because it is a big green creature you own, you are diluting your strategy. That card costs seven mana in a deck that wants to win before turn seven, and it does not create or buff tokens.
Every card earns its slot, or it does not make the cut.
Staying Focused in Commander
Commander adds a unique challenge because you are working with 100 singleton cards instead of 60 cards with up to four copies each. Maintaining focus in a 100-card deck requires extra discipline.
A popular method is the Rule of 8s (sometimes called the “8×8 method”). The idea is simple:
- Identify 8 categories your deck needs (such as ramp, card draw, removal, win conditions, protection, and so on).
- Assign roughly 8 cards to each category.
- That accounts for 64 cards. Add 36 lands, and you have your 100.
This is not a rigid formula — some categories might get 6 cards while others get 10 — but it provides a solid skeleton that keeps your deck from drifting into unfocused territory. You can always tune the numbers after playtesting.
For a deeper dive into aggressive strategies, check out How to Build an Aggro Deck. If you are more interested in reactive strategies, we also have a guide on Building Your First Control Deck.
Building on a Budget
Not everyone wants to drop hundreds of dollars on a deck, and you absolutely do not have to. Some of the most fun casual games happen with budget brews that cost less than a single chase mythic rare.
Set a Budget Before You Start
Before you start shopping for singles, decide how much you are willing to spend. Having a hard number in mind — whether that is $25, $50, or $100 — prevents you from rationalizing “just one more expensive card” over and over until you have accidentally spent far more than you planned.
A few budget-friendly approaches:
- Set a per-card ceiling. Decide that no single card in the deck will cost more than $2 (or $5, or whatever your threshold is). This forces creative card choices and often leads to more interesting decks.
- Build the deck first, buy second. Assemble the full list on a free tool like Moxfield or Archidekt and check the total price before purchasing anything.
- Upgrade over time. Start with budget versions and swap in pricier cards as you go. You do not need the perfect version on day one.
Finding Budget Card Alternatives
One of the best deckbuilding skills you can develop is finding cheaper cards that do a similar job to expensive staples. The effect will not always be identical — budget alternatives usually come with a slightly higher mana cost, a smaller body, or some other drawback — but they often get the job done well enough for casual play.
Here are some examples of expensive cards and their budget-friendly substitutes:
| Expensive Card | Budget Alternative | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Swords to Plowshares (~$3-5) | Path of Peril, Condemn, or Declaration in Stone | Swords is still affordable compared to many staples, but these alternatives work well in casual |
| Farewell (~$8-12) | Austere Command, Cleansing Nova, or Doomskar | Board wipes at different price points and flexibility levels |
| Ignoble Hierarch (~$8) | Llanowar Elves, Elvish Mystic, or Elves of the Navel | One-mana dorks are plentiful and most cost pennies |
| Shock Lands (~$10-15 each) | Gain lands, campuses, or basic lands | A mana base of basics and budget duals works fine at the kitchen table |
| Rhystic Study (~$30-40) | Curiosity Crafter, Reconnaissance Mission, or Keep Watch | Commander staple with plenty of cheaper card-draw options available |
The best tool for finding alternatives is Scryfall. Use its advanced search syntax to find cards with similar abilities. For example, searching o:"destroy all creatures" cmc<=5 usd<1 shows you every budget board wipe in the game. Scryfall’s syntax takes some learning, but it is the single most powerful card search engine available and it is completely free.
Use Proxies to Playtest
Before spending real money, proxy your deck. A proxy is simply a stand-in for a card you do not own — you can write the card name and key abilities on a basic land with a marker, print paper proxies to slip in front of bulk commons in sleeves, or use a service like MakePlayingCards for higher-quality test prints.
Proxies let you answer the most important question before you buy: “Is this deck actually fun to play?”
Most casual playgroups are fine with proxies, especially during the testing phase. Just communicate with your group about it. The goal is to make sure you enjoy the deck before investing in it.
Playtesting: Test Before You Invest
Playtesting is not just for competitive players grinding tournament lists. Even casual deckbuilders benefit enormously from running their deck through a few games before committing to a final version. It shows you what works, what sits dead in your hand, and where the gaps are.
Digital Playtesting Tools
You have more free playtesting options in 2026 than ever before:
- MTG Arena — The official free-to-play digital client. Great for testing Standard and Explorer-legal decks. The matchmaking system means you will face real opponents with real decks.
- Cockatrice — A free, open-source client where you can build any deck with any card and play against others online. No card restrictions and no cost. The interface is not flashy, but it gets the job done and supports every format.
- Tabletop Simulator — A paid app on Steam with community-made MTG modules. Feels closest to paper play. Good for testing Commander games with your actual playgroup remotely.
- Moxfield — While primarily a deck builder, Moxfield has a playtest feature that lets you goldfish (play solo against no opponent) to test your mana curve, opening hands, and draw sequences. It also calculates deck price automatically and shows you mana distribution charts.
- Archidekt — Another excellent deck builder with a built-in playtester, card recommendations, and Commander-specific analytics like color pip distribution and EDHREC synergy scores.
What to Look for When Playtesting
Run through at least 10-15 sample games (or goldfish sessions) and pay attention to:
- Opening hands. Are you consistently getting a playable mix of lands and spells? If you are mulliganing more than 30% of the time, your ratios are off.
- Mana curve. Do you have something to do on turns one through four? Or are you sitting idle until turn five? A common mistake in casual decks is loading up on expensive spells and having nothing to do early.
- Dead draws. Are there cards that consistently sit in your hand doing nothing? That is a sign they do not belong.
- Win condition access. Can you reliably find or draw into your win condition? If not, you may need more card draw, tutors, or redundant copies of similar effects.
Playtesting saves money. There is no worse feeling than buying a full deck of singles, shuffling up, and realizing after three games that it does not work. Test first, buy second.
Building Your Mana Base
Your mana base is the engine of your deck. Even the most brilliant strategy falls apart if you cannot cast your spells on time. New deckbuilders tend to underthink their lands, but this is one of the areas where a little attention pays off the most.
Land Count Guidelines
As a starting point:
| Format | Typical Land Count | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 60-card aggro | 20-22 lands | Low curve, wants to spend mana on spells every turn |
| 60-card midrange | 23-25 lands | Needs to hit land drops through turn 4-5 |
| 60-card control | 25-27 lands | Wants to hit every land drop, often runs expensive spells |
| Commander | 35-38 lands | Plus 8-12 pieces of ramp (mana rocks, mana dorks, land ramp) |
These are guidelines, not rules. A deck packed with cheap one-mana and two-mana spells can afford fewer lands. A deck with multiple six-drops needs more.
Choosing the Right Lands
If you are playing more than one color, you need lands that produce multiple colors of mana. Here is a quick rundown of the major options from least to most expensive:
- Basic lands — Free, reliable, and never enter tapped. Do not underestimate a mana base that is mostly basics.
- Gain lands / life lands — Enter tapped but gain you 1 life. Available for every color pair and cost pennies. Fine for casual play.
- Slow lands (Haunted Ridge, Dreamroot Cascade, etc.) — Enter untapped if you control two or more other lands. Excellent for mid-game and very affordable.
- Pain lands (Yavimaya Coast, Caves of Koilos, etc.) — Tap for colorless freely, or pay 1 life for a color. Untapped and budget-friendly. A classic that has aged well.
- Pathway lands (Branchloft Pathway, Clearwater Pathway, etc.) — Modal double-faced lands that you choose a side for when you play them. Always enter untapped.
- Shock lands (Breeding Pool, Blood Crypt, etc.) — Enter untapped if you pay 2 life. The gold standard for multicolor mana bases, searchable with fetch effects, but they run $10-15 each.
- Surveil lands (Underground Mortuary, Thundering Falls, etc.) — The newest dual land cycle. Enter tapped unless you pay 3 life, and let you surveil 1 when they enter. A strong budget-to-mid option.
For casual play, a mix of basics, pain lands, and slow lands gives you a smooth, affordable mana base. You do not need fetch lands and shock lands to have fun at the kitchen table.
For a more detailed breakdown, check out our Guide to Building a Mana Base.
Know Your Metagame
Deckbuilding does not happen in a vacuum. The best casual deck in the world is the one that is tuned to beat the decks you actually play against.
Your metagame — often shortened to “the meta” — is the collection of decks and strategies you regularly face. In competitive Magic, the meta is defined by tournament results and online data. In casual Magic, it is defined by your playgroup.
Questions to Ask About Your Meta
- What decks do your friends play? Does your group lean toward creature-heavy strategies, combo decks, or control?
- What cards give you the most trouble? If one friend’s Atraxa deck takes over every game, your deck needs a plan for that.
- What do you consistently lose to? Identifying patterns in your losses is the fastest way to improve your deckbuilding.
Adapting Without Losing Focus
The key to metagame adjustment is making targeted changes without gutting your core strategy. A few examples:
- If your group plays lots of creatures, include efficient removal like Go for the Throat, Swords to Plowshares, or Path to Exile.
- If someone always resolves a game-ending enchantment, make sure you have answers like Nature’s Claim, Boseiju, Who Endures, or Farewell.
- If graveyard strategies are common, slot in Unlicensed Hearse, Rest in Peace, or Soul-Guide Lantern.
- If artifacts are everywhere, Collector’s Vault, Vandalblast, or Brotherhood’s End can clean up the board.
In Commander specifically, you can use EDHREC to look up any commander and see the most commonly played cards. This helps you anticipate what your opponents might be running and plan accordingly.
The goal is not to turn your deck into a pile of answers — it is to make smart, surgical swaps that shore up your weaknesses while keeping your main plan intact.
Putting It All Together: The Deckbuilding Checklist
Before you sleeve up and shuffle, run through this checklist:
- Stick to the minimum deck size. 60 cards for constructed, 100 for Commander. No exceptions.
- Define your win condition. You should be able to explain in one sentence how this deck wins.
- Every card earns its slot. If a card does not advance your plan, protect it, or buy time, cut it.
- Check your mana base. Make sure your land count and color distribution support your curve.
- Playtest before you buy. Use Moxfield, Cockatrice, or paper proxies to test the deck first.
- Adapt to your playgroup. Tune your removal, answers, and interaction based on what you actually face.
These fundamentals apply whether you are building a $20 budget brew or a $500 optimized Commander deck. The principles do not change — only the card quality does.
Recommended Deckbuilding Resources
If you want to go deeper, here are the tools and sites worth bookmarking:
- Scryfall — The best card search engine. Learn the advanced syntax and you can find any card for any situation.
- EDHREC — The definitive Commander resource. Shows you the most popular cards for any commander, plus budget filters and theme pages.
- Moxfield — Clean deck builder with playtesting, price tracking, and community deck sharing.
- Archidekt — Feature-rich deck builder with Commander-focused analytics and recommendations.
- MTG Goldfish — Deck lists, metagame data, budget deck series, and price tracking across formats.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many lands should I put in a 60-card deck?
Most 60-card decks run between 22 and 26 lands, depending on the average mana cost of your spells. Aggressive decks with low curves (lots of one-drops and two-drops) can get away with 20-22. Midrange and control decks that need to hit land drops consistently should run 24-26. Use the Frank Karsten mana base article as a reference for precise numbers.
How many lands do I need in a Commander deck?
A typical Commander deck runs 35-38 lands, supplemented by 8-12 ramp sources (Sol Ring, Arcane Signet, Cultivate, mana dorks, and similar effects). Lower-curve decks can go down to 33-34 lands with heavy ramp packages, while higher-curve decks should lean toward 37-38. The Rule of 8s framework from earlier in this guide is a good starting point.
Is it okay to use proxies in casual play?
Yes, and you should — especially during the playtesting phase. Most casual playgroups welcome proxies as long as you communicate openly about it. Proxies let you test a deck before spending money, try out expensive cards you are considering purchasing, and keep power levels balanced in your group. Just ask your playgroup what their policy is before showing up with a fully proxied deck.
What is the best format for a new player to start deckbuilding in?
Commander is the most popular casual format and has the widest card pool, but that can be overwhelming for a brand-new deckbuilder. If you are just starting out, consider building a simple 60-card casual deck first to learn the fundamentals — land ratios, mana curves, and card selection. Once you are comfortable with those basics, Commander is an excellent next step. Preconstructed Commander decks are also a fantastic entry point that you can customize over time.
This post is part of The Ultimate Guide to Deckbuilding series, a modernized version of The Casual Planeswalker’s original guide. Check out the other posts in this series:
- Part 1: Understanding the Five Colors of Magic
- Part 2: Card Types and How They Work Together
- Part 3: Mana Curves and Deck Structure
- Part 4: Building Around Archetypes
- Part 5: The Complete Guide to Casual Deckbuilding (you are here)
- Part 6: Tuning and Sideboarding
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